5 Month Old Bearded Dragon Question?

5 Month Old Bearded Dragon Question? Topic: 5 Month Old Bearded Dragon Question?
June 25, 2019 / By Bijou
Question: Hi I have had my bearded dragon for about 7 weeks know. he is about 11inches long is that ok for a 5 month old ? he has only shed his skin once and thaat was in the first week i got him and that was only his tail he shed. i bath him twice a week and feed him about 10-15 crickets a day and a silkworm or two. he doesnt eat fruit at all. or veg. his tail s quite long thought but would that have anything to do with his morph ? thank you for your help :) it has a UV light by the way XD. aswell as my question any tips on how to get a beardy to eat fruit and veg
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Best Answers: 5 Month Old Bearded Dragon Question?

Ailith Ailith | 6 days ago
I have always fed mine as many as they could eat twice a day for about 10 minutes until they were a year old so 15 is not much at all. He needs to eat and also get used to veggies and greens. Why don't you try putting the salad mixture in in the am and hold off on the crickets until say even noon and then again around 5 pm. Soemtimes you have to use tough love to get them to eat the veggies but he has got to get used to them as after a yr old his diet should be 80% greens and veggies. I am going to give you my list of foods to see if he will eat some of these. Try peas as most of them love them. Just put some in on top of the greens and see. FEED DAILY Collard Greens Dandelion Greens Endive Escarole Mustard Greens Turnip Greens Acorn Squash Butternut Squash Hubbard Squash Green Beans Peas Parsnips Turnips Scallop Squash Spaghetti Squash Summer Squash Sweet potato Figs Mango Papaya Raspberries Silkworm Cactus Pad/Leaf FEED OCCASSIONALLY Arugula Bok Choy Kale Bell Peppers, red & green Bell Peppers, yellow Celery Cucumbers Okra Potato, russet Pumpkin, raw Radish Spinach Watercress Yams, raw Zucchini, raw & peeled Apples Apricots Blackberries Blueberries Cantaloupe Cherries Cranberries Grapefruit Grapes Guava Honeydew Kiwi Nectarines Orange, naval Orange, mandarin Peaches Pear, not asian Pineapple, canned Pineapple, fresh Plums Prunes, canned Raisins, seedless Strawberries Watermelon Butterworms Silkworms Superworms Waxworms Basil Beans, garbanzo Beans, kidney Beans, lima Beans, pinto Cilantro Peppermint leaves Spearmint Wheat grass FLOWERS/PLANTS rose petals dandelions dahlias hibiscus nasturtiums alfalfa astible baby tears basil – leaves & flowers Chinese lantern – flowers Carnations – petals Chamomile, English Clover Day lilies Dracaena Fennel Ficus – leaves Geranium – flowers & leaves Grape – leaves & fruit Impatiens Hollyhock Hens & chickens Lavender Mint Oregano Pansies – flowers Phlox Rosemary – leaves & flowers Spider plant – leaves, sap may irritate Split leaf philodendron – leaves Squash flowers Thyme – leaves & flowers Yucca – flowers Wandering Jew – leaves, sap may irritate RARELY Broccoli Brussel sprouts Carrots Cauliflower Green peas raw Rutabaga, raw Tomatoes Pomegranate Star fruit Bananas Rice, brown, long grain Soybeans NEVER cabbage Corn Lettuce Spinach Avocado Eggplant Mushrooms Rhubarb Chicken Ground beef Pork chops Spaghetti, cooked Meal Worms
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Ailith Originally Answered: Bearded dragoin owners. i need some help, i just got a 5 month old dragon and i don kno how much to feed him?
Yes you are definitely under feeding him. Baby and juvenile Beardies should be offered appropriately sized crickets two to three times a day. Offer as many as your Beardie will eat in a 5-10 minute time frame. When your Beardie stops eating, stop offering. Young Bearded Dragons can eat anywhere from 20-60 small crickets a day. Your Beardie should also be given fresh greens daily. Spraying the greens with water will help them last longer and will also help keep your Beardie hydrated. You should dust the food with calcium once a day, 5 times a week, make sure to use calcium without vitamin D3. Here is a guide to their diet that will help you more: http://reptile-parrots.com/forums/showth...

Tolly Tolly
Beardies come in an assortment of sizes, sorta like people, so the size is fine. Are you powering the crickets or buying the more expensive gut loaded ones? Only feed him what he can eat in less than 10 minutes. He needs to start eating his veggies. I hope Gamamoe answers your question. He has a fantastic list of foods for the beardies. Most people are so fascinated watching them eat the crickets that they neglect the fruits and veggies. As far as the shedding, I wouldn't worry, but I feel he should have had a complete shed by now.
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Rastus Rastus
15 is a little much a day, unless you are using VERY tiny crickets, you can cause impaction if he/she eats too much. My friend overfed her baby dragon and caused impaction, very sad...it did die also.They LOVE Papaya, and Collard Greens are the best, vitamin enriched greens for them. You really have to cut portions small of the papaya and collard greens and not to give too much...they will never stop eating as long as there is food in front of them and you do not want to cause impaction or bad digestion. Ive given my dragons too much and have seen undigested pieces of food in their poop. I've heard apples and bananas are no good and you dont wanna give oranges, lemons, etc.. Try to get a small feeding tank where the dragon can eat...maybe a 10 gallon aquarium. Crickets and veggies should both be placed in here. You dont want that bacteria from decomposing food in their home, plus would you poop where you eat? Never put the crickets in their home tank. They can die and decompose causing bacteria, or hide out for a few days and when the get hungry they always go straight for the dragons eyes. I used to take defrosted peas and flick them across my floor and they would chase and eat the peas..good exercise too. Unused Papaya and Collard Greens should be stored in your fridge in tupperware, and most of it will go bad, unless you eat some too or are feeding a few dragons. Get those greens and papaya in that diet and good luck. They will suffer in a few years from metabolic bone disease unless cared for with proper diet and Sunlight. If you cant get real sunlight Home depot has ultraviolet bulbs for a few dollars, the pet store will try to rip you off selling you this. That sunlight is such an important part of eating and digesting for them. Read up on it in the yahoo group called Pogona...they will get you sorted out on the proper bulb as there are so many different kinds P.S. Pogona is the scientific name for Bearded dragons.
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Masterman Masterman
he has shed if he is that big, they eat their old skin immediately after they shed, you probably just never saw him shed.
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Masterman Originally Answered: Bearded dragon feeding question?
PLEASE do not feed your beardie mealworms or pinkies. It is obvious that both you and your son want to do the best you can in giving your possible new pet the best care. I made up a quick and easy care sheet for just this reason. Please scan through it and follow the links for more info. Here is some important info for you to take a look at – a small care sheet type thing I made up: They need at least a 40g tank - this is for each. You should never house two bearded dragons together as they can and probably will end up fighting – if not at first, they will with time as they get territorial. They get big in size, plus this size tank will properly distribute the needed temps on the hot and cool side. The hot needs to be 90-100, the cool 80-90 (add 10 to both sides for juveniles). The temp can go into the 70s at night throughout the whole tank as this is the normal temp they are used to at night. Beardie’s also MUST have an UVB light 10-12 hours a day, and need to be able to get within 6-8 inches of it to properly receive its rays. UVB helps some reptiles properly digest their food and receive the nutrients, especially calcium from their food. DO NOT use any type of under the tank heater or heat rock for your dragon or in the tank. Bearded dragons do not have heat sensors on their underside and many have experienced serious burns, some life threatening, due to these items. Any type of loose substrate is bad for a bearded dragon as it can cause impaction (http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/). The best substrates to use are repti-carpet, outside carpet, tile, non-adhesive shelf liner, paper towel, and even felt. If you have a bearded who likes to dig, you can place a towel or some paper towel, or even a small blanket loosely where he likes to sleep. This will safely give him something to bury himself into. Here are some pics of my Spike with her favorite blanky, (http://picasaweb.google.com/dolphinsilversea01/Spike#5286327603195808962 and http://picasaweb.google.com/dolphinsilversea01/Spike#5286327592283475234). Beardie’s need both live food and salads on a DAILY basis. The salads should contain a mixture of greens, like collard greens and others plus an occasion of fruits and veggies mixed in. Visit http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html to get a listing of the foods that are good, and foods to stay away from. For the live foods NEVER feed your bearded meal worms or mice. Meal worms have too hard of an outer shell with very little meat inside making them hard to digest. Mice, no matter what size, are very fattening and have very hard bones that are hard to digest. A bearded dragon’s digestive track is VERY small and at one point has like a kink in it, anything that has not been digested properly up to this point can get stuck and cause impaction. This is why the rule of thumb as far as size of food, whether it be salads or live, is it should be no bigger than the space in-between their eyes. Some better choices for live food are crickets, super worms (only when beardie is big enough), wax worms (only as a treat as they are fattening), calci-worms, silk worms, and the best are turk and dubia roaches. A lot of people freak when they first hear about the roaches, but they are not like your house roaches. I have a colony of dubia roaches. They are clean, don't smell like crickets do, easy to care for, and reproduce for themselves! Here are some pics of my dubia colony. There are more pics that you can scan through, (http://picasaweb.google.com/dolphinsilversea01/RoachColony#). Always gut load all live feeders before giving them to your beardie. Gut loading is pretty much just making sure that the feeders you are getting ready to feed to your bearded are full and have recently eaten themselves. This fattens them up, puts more meat on them, and makes them nutritionally better for your beardie. Example: Take the crickets you bought and put them into a container with cricket feed, fish food, or crushed dog/cat food over night and then feed them to your beardie. Humidity is bad for a beardie and should only be at 30% in the viv. They normally do not drink from a bowl, but I keep a small one in my Spike’s viv just in case. In the wild they drink from falling water when it rains as it falls down leaves and such. They also get it from their food, and it is good to soak your beardie as much as possible. You can soak (or give your beardie a “bath”) your beardie in like a plastic container, in the sink, or in the tub – wherever is easiest and more convenient to keep a good eye on him/her. Be sure that the water stays warm – you can test the warmth of the water by letting it run along the inside of your wrist much like when you test a baby’s bottle. Let your beardie soak for at least 10-15 minutes as often as you can. Soaking a beardie helps them get hydrated, helps them with shedding, and the warmness and pressure from the water helps things move through their digestive system better.

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