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New dog,what food do i feed it?

New dog,what food do i feed it? Topic: New dog,what food do i feed it?
April 19, 2019 / By Bevin
Question: i bought a new dog today,a 3yr old bichon frise.the prob is it wont eat the 'pedigree' food they gave us to try or 'natural pet' food.i have never had a dog before and am getting worried that it might be hungry.what do i do??(it had sme chicken though)
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Best Answers: New dog,what food do i feed it?

Ailene Ailene | 3 days ago
Pedigree sucks. Iams is horrid. Cesar sucks. All in all, all foods that most vet recommends suck, because they're paid to tell you to get the food. Petco's quality foods are Natural Balance and Eagle Pack. These two are high-quality foods that won't let you down. Also, if you have better sources, try finding or ordering Canidae, Orijen, Wellness, Innova, or Chickens Soup for the Dog Lover's Soul. These foods have no by-products, salts, or fillers. The dog may be nervous of its new surroundings. Give it time and let it settle in. Allow it to have its space and privacy as it learns about its new home. Offer to play with it, take it in the backyard, and give a couple treats. S/he should warm up sooner or later. Mrs X: Much on the contrary, dogs have been known to live significantly longer when put on real good diets. Heavy prices don't mean much until you read the ingredients.
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Ailene Originally Answered: Is it just as healthy to feed your cat dry food than it is to feed them canned food (ex Fancy Feast)?
Trust me on this, it is a myth that it is OK to feed just dry food. Yes some cats are ok on it, but I have seen to many cats come into the vet I work at with renal(kidney) issues due to lack of hydration due to a dry food only diet. Dry cat food actually does nothing for cats teeth as most cats swallow the kibble pieces whole...if you hear them cruch it is probably the rare time they actually took to much in their mouth to swallow and had to chew. Cats mouths are not meant to chew...they are meant to tear...why do you think they dont have flat grinding molars like us? Because theirs are sharp to tear their soft meat into peices to swallow whole. I understand your dislike of wet food, it is yicky. However, it IS essential for your pets health. Cats need the extra water in the food to get their recommended amount of fluid intake. Since cats are desert creatures by nature, they dont drink water all that often....as in nature they get all their water from the animals they eat. Wet food does not cause obesity, cats only gain weight if they are on a grain filled diet since that many carbohydrates are not good for their system. As long as you free feed them a high quality dry food and supplement it with wet food the cat will stay slim. I have 16 rescue cats and ALL of them stay slim on this diet. To prevent renal failure and other health issues down the line you need to feed your cats wet food. However, stay away from fish based foods, besides popular belief it is NOT good for them as it is not a natural food item. Good luck

Tod Tod
In answering late - it really depends on what you feed, how much you feed, and where you buy. I have 2, 80 pound dogs - the younger gets around 2lbs a day whereas the older dog gets about 1 1/2 lbs of food a day - soon to be taken down to 1 1/4 lbs for winter. the health benefits far outweigh the cost for me. other benefits are my dogs don't stink, skin/fur or breath. teeth are always clean, coat soft and shiny, no big sticky/mushy poop to deal with. I probably spend about $100 a month on food for my dogs. They actually don't eat $100 worth of food a month. I fill my freezer on a monthly basis so they will never run out of food. Although I get most of my meat between $ .50 and .99 per pound I do buy a variety of not-so-common things to feed them that may cost a little more than a $1 a pound.
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Randy Randy
Red Rover has listed excellent foods for you. You can add Wysong,Flint River, Honest Kitchen , Merrick and homemade. I stew up carrots, sweet potatoes chicken thighs or canned salmon with string beans. Put about a good tablespoon over kibble or the stew alone. I do both. The person who buys the cheapest food and adds carbs to that diet is not doing her dog one bit of good. Most of the other suggestions have by products, that is feathers, beaks, dying animals, feet, and any other junk around. Never buy anything with the words by product. Some of the people seem to be unaware of all the animals that died last spring and summer from some of the foods they recommend. If the vet sells it the general rule is DON"T USE IT! Science Diet, Eukanuba, Iams are as junky as the grocery store brands. Beneful is the worst food of all.
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Marvin Marvin
My dog wouldn't eat plain dog food, so i found one called 'Turducken' He loves it. its made by Merrick. I've heard from a lot of people that their dogs were the same way. This food is great and made with a bunch of good healthy stuff. It might not be eating because of stress too, but try to feed it something because those little dogs get lethargic if they dont eat. good luck.
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Jether Jether
i feed my mastiff and rhodesian ridgeback solid gold food, beef and barley formula. do some research and you will see a difference in dog foods, check the labels and the web sites. for example: solid gold, good food , costs more, but has never been recalled. diamond dog foods have been recalled, and is not a quality food. kibbles and bits....crap...and i mean crap....it has bad ingredients and from the label you with see: corn, meat-by-products, and corn syrup...yeah..sugar!!! feeding that garbage to a dog is like feeding it a box of Twinkies. for the people who are not aware, they need to check out the whole dog journal or dog food analyst for info on many dog foods. any dog food that has corn, mystery meat, corn syrup { sugar }, or wheat-gluten in it, should be avoided. again, do some research. as far as bad foods, also on my short list are ol-roy, pedigree, alpo, come-n-get it, gravy train, iams, eukanuba, science diet, and any generic / store brand. good foods: solid gold, canadie, wellness, taste of the wild, merrick, chicken soup, blue buffalo, barf diet { raw feeding }, newman's own, and natural balance. good luck choosing a good food, and remember dog food is like human food, better food costs more, and we live longer when we do not eat junk food.
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Jether Originally Answered: Are there other kinds of food that can be feed to young bearded dragons that would take the place of live food
Feeding - Feeding your Bearded Dragon will require handling bugs. Yes, we said BUGS... Crickets, mealworms, wax worms, oh! And possibly pinkies. Bearded Dragons are omnivores, meaning that they will eat veggies and small animals. Insects should be a daily staple of your Dragons diet and greens should be available at all times. Bugs - The size of the food items you feed your Dragon is extremely important. All food that is offered should be smaller in width than the Dragons mouth. Use caution in choosing the insect size, as too large of a cricket can cause health problems (ie. - blockage) while digesting. The same applies with mealworms, use small mealworms for small dragons, and increase the mealworm size as the dragons size increases. A hatchling, up to 2 months will eat mostly insects, picking at finely chopped greens here and there. 2 week old crickets (3/8 inch in size) should be offered 2 - 3 feedings a day, only in the amount that the dragon will eat at one feeding.. A juvenile Dragon (2 - 4 months) will eat approximately 20% greens to 80% insects... 3 week old crickets should be given 2 times daily and small (1/2 inch) mealworms can be added to their diet. 4 months to maturity should be fed approximately 4 week old crickets once or twice daily. The small mealies may be replaced by larger ones and king mealworms may also be added. Pinky mice can also be added to their diet once a week, depending on the size of the dragon. Adult dragons need to be fed adult crickets, king mealworms... once a day or every other day. Pinky mice, if used, should be fed sparingly - unless feeding a gravid adult. Bearded dragons are voracious eaters, especially when they are young. If you aren't feeding the hatchlings enough, and if they have cage-mates, they will nibble toes and tail-tips - if it moves, its food. If your dragons aren't eating well, something is possibly wrong. The most likely problem is that the cage temperature is incorrect: their bodies must reach high temperatures in order to digest their food. If they are digesting slowly, they wont eat well. First step - Check Temp. Gutloading - Crickets and mealworms are readily available at most pet shops. These crickets and mealies are generally not high in nutrients directly from the pet shop and will need to be fed well (GutLoad, baby cereal, fresh fruit & veggies) before being offered to your Dragon. This is called 'gutloading'. I recommend 'gutloading' crickets for 24 hours before feeding. We use an orange, carrot and a potato for moisture, and a mixture of baby cereal and Gutload for nutrients. Veggies - There is a huge selection of 'leafy' greens which are high in calcium to feed your Dragon, some of which are... kale, arugula, collard & mustard greens, parsley, dandelion greens and flowers, endives, radish, carrot and turnip tops, escarole and chicory endive. For more of a variety, mixed into the greens may be many other veggies such as squash, corn, peas, carrots (shredded), sweet potato, cucumber, zucchini, green peppers, chard... also chopped fruit such as cantaloupe, apple, blueberries, peaches, pears, grapes, plums, raspberries... all chopped finely to avoid choking. The main idea in their diet is variety.**Do not feed your dragons iceburg lettuce as is has very little nutritional value and may give the dragon the 'runs' - prompting dehydration. Dragons will also munch on other greens. If you take your dragon outside or allow it to roam about the house - please be sure to check that the possible munchies are not poisonous. USDA Nutrient DataBase for Standard Reference The Toxicity of Plants Safe Plants Edible and Harmful Plants The "G" List Supplementation - Another 'must' for Beardies is a Calcium supplement - We use Rep-Cal Calcium - with Vitamin D3 and occasionally Miner-All. The dust can be placed into a baggie and crickets 'shake -n- baked' in it before feeding... and the liquid can be sprayed onto their greens. The form of the calcium is a preference, but its presence is definitely a must. At least 1 feeding every other day should be calcium supplemented. **One day a week, we supplement with a multivitamin such as Herptivite. Caution should be exercised when using a multi-vitamin supplement, as reptiles are susceptible to vitamin A toxicity. A Preliminary Feeding Study in Bearded Dragon Lizards Water - Bearded dragons require a dry cage, but need to get a lot of water from sprayings and eating fresh vegetables. The hatchlings should be sprayed twice daily on their heads, keeping the spray directed onto their heads as long as they keep lapping up the water. Adults should be sprayed a few times a week. This simulates the natural way dragons get water by licking up drops of dew they find on plants in the morning. Some do learn to drink from a shallow water pan, but if they get thin or dehydrated it will be necessary to get them to ingest more water by increased spraying and by misting their fresh vegetables. If using a water dish, the water MUST be changed daily and if the dish has been defecated in - it must be cleaned immediately. Lighting and Heating - Proper lighting is also very important to the well-being of a Bearded Dragon. A good split of day/night is 14/10. This can easily be regulated by a timer, which can be found at almost any hardware store. ((not only is it better for the Dragon... its much easier on the caregiver. :)) A basking spot is also a must for a Beardie. The Dragons body temperatures are important for digestion and fighting off illness. A low watt bulb, placed in a reflector dome at one end of the cage, will concentrate the bulbs heat to that one side of the cage. The top basking area on one side of the cage (closest to the light) should reach between 105 - 115 degrees for adults and 110 - 120 for babies - with the ambient cage temperature on the other side of the cage being significantly cooler - approximately 80-85 degrees. This basking temperature may seem high, but these temperatures are common of the ground surface when air temperatures are over 85 degrees. (yes, this can be tricky... but that's where cage accessories come in handy.) The nighttime temperature of your cage can drop into the 60's without worry. If your house gets cooler than that, you may need to invest in a red bulb for nighttime temperature maintenance. This will emit the heat needed to keep the temp up, but not the light that will interrupt the dragons sleep pattern. WARNING - Do not use an electrical reptile heat rock or heating pad as a heat source for your Bearded Dragons. Thes products have the potential to fatally burn the dragon's belly, as many lizards do not feel a 'localized' temperature... but an overall body temperature. (See Thermal Burns below) The need for a full spectrum florescent reptile light is among those topics being disputed between Hobbyists at the moment. Dragons DO need a source of UVB light to naturally produce vitamin D3, (which helps to absorb calcium) and without a steady supply of it, are more subject to complications. This can be obtained by a bulb or by subjecting your Dragon to natural sunlight for a period of time each day. Many people think that by placing the vivarium near a window and allowing the reptile to bask in the sun will help. This is not so. Normal plate glass as used in windows and vivariums will actually filter out the ultra-violet rays that are required to synthesise natural vitamin D3. If choosing to use a full spectrum light, the bulb should be within 6-10 inches of the basking area, so they can absorb the UV-A and UV-B to manufacture their vitamin D3 for bone formation. These bulbs need to be replaced after 6 months time. Once again, it is not vital AS LONG AS there is proper supplementation in their diet and enough light intensity. We feel UVB indoor lights are not needed if dragons are fed a proper diet; and supplemented with Vitamin D3. A calcium/D3 supplement, like RepCal can be used in place of the UVB bulb. The dragon still received its needed Vitamin D3, but instead of producing it itself, it is given dietarily.

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