Questions about water turtles, need info.?

Questions about water turtles, need info.? Topic: Questions about water turtles, need info.?
June 16, 2019 / By Bab
Question: Three days ago we got three baby water turtles that are the size of fifty cent peices. I have never had water turtles before, only box turtles. I have baby crickets in the aqurium with them right now. I have the vitamin powder that I put on there food. Today I took them out and put them into another container to feed them some red worms, mini krill, baby shrimp, and mini sticks but they didn't seem interested in any of the food. They seemed upset about not being in the aqurium. I had read online that when you feed them, it's good to put them in another container to eat. I am worried because I don't know if they are eating. I put the red worms in the aqurium with them now. Only put 4 in there, plus they have some crickets in there. I need any info or advice you have on water turtles. I want to do my best taking care of them. PLease get back to me. Thanks
Best Answer

Best Answers: Questions about water turtles, need info.?

Abra Abra | 5 days ago
Some people do recommend feeding in a different container (with water, they need water to swallow!) to help keep the water clean. I however do not suggest this with new turtles who are getting used to a new environment. They are already stressed from being in a new place and constantly moving them to feed, just stresses them out even more. Just feed in the tank and remove any uneaten food. New turtles getting used to a new place may take awhile to start eating so don't worry too much there, unless it's been over 2 weeks. Since you have never had aquatic turtles before, I want to give you a recommend shopping list to make sure you have everything for happy healthy turtles. And to make sure the little guys get a varied diet. It is true that babies are more carnivorous but you don't want to feed too much protien. 1.You need the biggest tank you can afford upfront. A good rule of thumb is 10g per inch of shell, so no a 10g would not be fine unless you have a 1in hatchling, but it won't last you long so it doesn't make sense to buy small. Red Ear's can easily grow 12 in or more with proper care! If you can't afford a large tank, there are other options, a kiddie pool, a preformed pond liner, a rubber maid tote etc. Turtle tanks / the side cut out is a waste of money. Also Sliders like deep water so fill the tank! 2. You need a UVA/UVB light the box must say UVB and it must emit at least 5% UVB but 10% is best. 3. You need a Heat/Basking lamp, this can be a clamp lamp from a hardware store for 5 bucks and a household bulb. 4. You need a Basking spot. This needs to be a place for the turtle to come completly out of the water to dry off and sun himself. You can use a log, a platform, a dock, a ramp, etc as long as the turtle can fit on it comfortably. 5. You need good filtration. Turtles are messy. Shoot for 2x the gallon size but more is good too. For example if you have a 40g get a filter made for an 80g or bigger. 6. Submersible heater. Depending on where you live, you may need a heater, the water temps should be mid to high 70's if you cannot achieve this w/out a heater, then get one. 7. A thermometer so you can accurately monitor the temps. 8. Substrate, you may use substrate but do not buy gravel!! Turtles can and will eat it. Usually with dire consequences. A good alternative is river rock bigger than the turtles head upgrading if needed. 9. Decorations/plants (llive or real as long as not toxic see safe plants under food below) a place to hide. This are not absolutly needed but plants and other hiding places reduces stress. 10. A good herp vet. If you want to be a responsible pet owner, you need a good vet BEFORE trouble happens. http://www.nytts.org/nytts/helpnet.htm..... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vets_for_h... These links will help you find a good one. 11. Food, turtles need a varied diet and need to be fed in the water; Hatchlings Hatchlings should be fed everyday for the first year of their lives. They should be given as much as they can eat in 10 to 15 mins time or as much as you could fit into their head if hollow. You can feed them all of it at once or you can slit it up into 2 feedings. Hatchlings tend to be more Carnivorous than adults, so make sure to check out the suggestions of live and protein-rich foods below for how to supplement accordingly. (Make sure you still give fruits and veggies at this stage!) Juveniles/Adults Once your turtle reaches the 4" mark, we recommend that you change their feeding schedule to every other day. Giving them greens or live plants in between. Adults tend to become more Omnivorous, so make sure to check out the suggestions of fruits and vegetables below. Vitamins and Calcium You should supplement your turtle's diet with both vitamins and calcium, every third feeding or once a week. To give them vitamins many people will give them a Vitamin Bath once a week. You can also either soak the pellets in a liquid vitamin or dampen them and roll them in a powder vitamin before feeding. It is recommended you have a light that supplies UVA and at the very least a 5.0 UVB output. The UVB is necessary for the absorption of calcium and vitamin D3. Turtles need both calcium and Vitamin D3 for strong bones and shells. **Feeding Tip Feedings should be done in a separate container so that you do not have to frequently change the water nor the filter media. Common Diet Errors Feeding Cat or Dog Food Despite what some pet store employees may tell you, turtles should not be fed dog or cat food (Sounds insane, but we've heard it!) Pellet Only Diets Pellets provide many benefits, but variety is key! Supplement their diet with veggies, live foods and some fruits. Check out our safe list below. Giving in to Beggars Turtles will always beg whether you give in or not- they know you are the supplier of food! Supplement between feedings with greens or live foods they have to chase to eat. ( Iceberg lettuce is a common filler that doesn't contain much nutritional value, but will keep them content.) Safe Feeding List Commercial Foods (This is just a few of them on the market) * Tetra Reptomin * ZooMed's Aquatic Turtle Food * Exo Terra * Wardley's Reptile Premium Sticks * HBH Turtle Bites Frozen/Canned (For treats) * Spirulina-enriched Brine Shrimp * Bloodworms * Plankton * Krill * ZooMed's Can O'Crickets, Grasshoppers, or Meal Worms Live Foods (Carnivorous) * Guppies or Rosies Reds (no goldfish they are too fatty and have very little nutritional value) * Crickets (Gut-Loaded) * Pinhead Crickets (for smaller turtles) * Earthworms, Night Crawlers * Ghost Shrimp * Aquatic Snails/Apple Snails * Slugs * Wax Worms, Super Worms **Be careful about Wild-Caught foods, they can carry parasites that can be transferred to your turtle. Freezing Wild-Caught foods for a month will help to kill off some parasites. Fruits (small amounts for treats only) * Apples * Bananas * Grapes * Melon * Tomato * Strawberries **Should be cut up in small, bite-size or match-like sticks that will be easy for the turtle to bite into and not choke on. Veggies * Squash * Zucchini * Carrots * Greens- Red Leaf, Romaine, Collards, Kale, Dandelion Greens **Stay away from Spinach. Make sure to cut the veggies in bite-size or match-like sticks so your turtle can eat them easily. Iceberg lettuce is a good filler, but contains little/no nutritional value! Aquatic Plants * Anacharis * Duckweed * Water Hyacinth * Water Lettuce * Water Lily 12. A good forum where you can get advice, support and help. I'm partial to the one I belong to lol http://www.turtleexchange.com/forum/inde...
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Abra Originally Answered: How to care for water turtles?
1) People who don't know one turtle from another should refrain from identifying them for others. You have a painted turtle. My guess is that it is an intergrade between the midwestern and eastern subspecies. Where do you live? NY? BTW, they are moderately common. 2) Pick up a book by De Vosjoli on red-eared sliders and other aquatic turtles. Many pet stores carry it. That will give you adequate instructions as to what you need (and don't need). 3) Frequency of feeding depends on size. Once a day should be adequate. As they get older, you can feed less often. 4) Juveniles need an all-meat diet. The three best foods, IMHO, are earthworms, liver, and small fishes. 5) The cheapest adequate tank is a stiff plastic wading pool. You can usually get a 3' diameter one for $10 or less. Figure 10 gallons of tank for each inch of turtle shell, cumulative. You can cheat on this a bit with wading pools because they have so much bottom area.

Sybald Sybald
RES must be in water to eat. It sounds like you are feeding them well. Yes, you can feed them in a separate container, but it has to have water in it. Start offering greens now as well. Good luck to you and your RES! :)
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Patsy Patsy
water turtles will only eat in the water..feed them pieces of shrimp or turtle pellets they have them at wal mart...go to repticzone.com and find the water turtle forum they have great info
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Lorn Lorn
Our younger daughter keeps red-eared sliders. They are in a large tank, with rocks piled up in one place so they can climb up and "sun" themselves. She feeds them pellets and feeder goldfish, although yours are probably a bit too small yet for feeders.
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Lorn Originally Answered: how do i take care of my little water turtles?
Common Name: Red-Eared Slider Latin name: Trachemyss scripta elegans Native to: Mississippi River valley and tributaries from Indiana to the Gulf of Mexico Size: Average adult is 5 - 8 inches; females are larger than males of same age. Life span: 15 - 25 Years General appearance: Young red-eared sliders are bright green with yellow markings and a red stripe just behind the eyes. Colors dull with age. Housing requirements: Enclosure: Should be mostly aquatic. Minimum dimensions for tank are: width - 3 times the shell length and length - 6 times the shell length. Minimum depth of the water should be as deep as the shell is wide. A basking area is needed to allow the red-ear slider to get out of the water to dry completely. UV lighting can be beneficial. Temperature: The water should be 70° - 75° F and can be maintained with a submersible aquarium heater. The basking area should be 84° - 88°F during the daylight period. This can be maintained with an incandescent light. Substrate: Substrate is not recommended, as frequent water changes make it difficult to clean. Diet: Feeding should be daily with all they can eat in 45 minutes. Remove all food remaining after that time, except for greens. Just because they beg for food does not necessarily mean they're hungry, this is a trained condition. Diet should be at least 65% - 85% meat consisting of commercial turtle food, trout chow, beef heart, cooked chicken, fish live or fresh caught (not frozen). Meat should be dusted once a week with a good herp vitamin containing D3. Dark green leafy vegetables can be used to fill the rest of the diet. Maintenance: Water should be clean and clear. Waste should be removed whenever it is found. Filtration prolongs the time between water changes, but should not be used as a substitute for water changes. Wastewater should not be emptied into a sink that is used for food preparation or personal hygiene. Hands and any other part of your body that comes in contact with the water should be washed thoroughly with anti-bacterial soap.

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